Clothing from East Greenland VII. The development of polar clothing

The function of clothes
Clothes have three functions: protection, ornamentation, and the expression of identity. Which of these three functions takes priority depends on the society. In the Arctic region, protection was the chief function, particularly against the cold, yet certain items of clothing also served to protect the wearer against supernatural threats, while hunters wore camouflage when seeking their prey.

   

Harald Boasen, a hunter from East Greenland, used a a throwing stick when casting his harpoon. In the kayak he wore a white or grey cotton anorak for camouflage, over a warm woollen jersey. This garment was developed from the anorak of seal fur worn in former times. (Photo: Gert Nooter, 1967, no. 67-4-10-7 and 8).

The peoples of the polar region also decorated their clothing in many different ways, within limits imposed by the climate. Some items of clothing were not particularly functional with respect to the cold, but continued in use because of local aesthetic concepts. One example of this is the woman's short trousers. Coats with attached gloves - a perfect solution to the problem of cold - are only found among the peoples of Siberia. Yet this item would also have been eminently suited to the climate of Greenland. The fact that they were missing from other areas of the region shows that cultural factors weighed more heavily than adaptation to the climate. Consequently it is incorrect to accept the natural environment as the sole explanation for the development of polar clothing. The cold experienced in such an environment is less hostile for the peoples of the region than it would be for us. They have always had, and still have, an outstanding ability to adapt themselves to their environment, and to use it for establishing a way of life.

Cultural aspects are an intrinsic part of clothing, being just as important as the demands of the natural environment for the development and retention of particular items of clothing, and the development of designs and techniques.


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